RAJIV KARNIK
I had not hiked for well over a year, so I was look-ing for an easier walk to get started again. I went online and found out about the Three Capes Track in Tasmania. Bookings and information are on their website and it is managed by Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Services. A booking was available for one person in mid-April, so I quickly booked the walk. The link is - http://www.threecapestrack.com.au.
I flew to Hobart and then took a bus and reached Port Arthur in the evening. I had booked for the night in an Airbnb and as it was raining the host had very kindly come to the bus stop to pick me up. I had a warm and comfortable night and as it was still raining my host dropped me at the Port Arthur Historic Site. I checked in, had a coffee and walked to the wharf.
On a good day, the boat will take you on a cruise through coves and cliffs in the bay. As it was wet and quite windy we were dropped off directly at Denman’s Cove. A short and leisurely walk through woodlands of about two hours, including a break for lunch at the beach, Surveyor’s Bay. At Surveyor’s Hut, accommodation was very good, with rooms sleeping four or eight with bunk beds and mattresses. I was allocated to an eight person room and we were allocated the same room number for the entire walk. This place had two large kitchen and dining areas with gas cooktops and pots and pans.
There was a large viewing deck outside overlook-ing Cape Raoul with lovely views. However, the rain, wind and cold kept us mostly indoors in the kitchen area, which had a warm fireplace going. I was carrying dehydrated food, so all it took was boiling hot water in the kettle and enjoying Thai chicken curry and rice. Then cups of tea and chat-ting with the other walkers.
The ranger gave a talk in the evening about the place, and forecasts for the next couple of days. The advice was that the next day was going to be sunny and the following day wet. So, he suggest-ed that we got to the next hut which was the day two walk, plus do the day three walk to Pilar, on the second day as well.
The huts were full and included quite a few families with younger kids. It was a good mix of ages and great company. Then into our sleeping bags for a night’s rest. I used the ear plugs that the ranger had handed out, but they did not help much with a couple of loud snorers next to me. The next day I started early as I planned to do the extended walk. It was a beautiful sunny day, clear skies and a bit cold and windy. Through the eucalyp-tus forest and heathlands and up to Arthur’s Peak and views of lovely views of Munro Bight. Then into the valley and through forest to Munro Hut.
I dropped off my pack, had morning tea of parathas (Indian bread with spinach) and a cup of tea. Took my day pack and started off on the walk to Cape Pilar. This is a scenic walk on an excellent track. Walk-ing on sea cliffs with amazing sea and cliff views. The track meanders with views of Tasman Island and then the last bit to the top of the Blade, which is a sea cliff pushing out towards Tasman Island. I had a long and leisurely break and lunch on top with amazing views all around.
Then return to Munro Hut and a cup of tea after walking about 28 km. Next a treat, an improvised hot shower, after the long walk, in an outdoor bathroom. Today’s ranger talk was quite entertaining as he recounted his experiences of commercial fishing in the area. He also talked about the effect of climate change leading to warming of the currents in the area and loss of cold water fish. Dinner was cottage pie from a pack.
Going to the toilet at night, and generally the toilets were a long way away, I startled a rather large brush tailed possum along the way.
The next day turned out to be much better than forecast, and the walk to Retakuna Hut was a short walk. So, I did a side walk to the waterfall along the way, and then went on to the hut. Had hot lunch using one of my dehydrated packs, and then did another side walk along with a group who had adopted me for the walk. I had a wonderful leisurely day with walks along some amazing views and surrounds.
The evening talk was again interesting, and the ranger showed us her hut and also the spare hut used by maintenance staff. This hut was used in the Antarctic base and was shaped like an igloo and made of metal. It felt a bit claustrophobic, and I won-dered about people using this hut for days at a time in harsh and cold surroundings. Then I had my dinner of Moroccan Lamb using the last of my pack-aged meals and into my sleeping bag.
The last morning dawned bright and clear. Breakfast and cup of tea and started on the final day’s walk to Cape Huay. Up Mount Fortescue through a beautiful rain forest and on the top with those amazing views. Then I came to the junction with one path leading to Fortescue Bay and the other to the Cape. I left my pack and started walking to the Cape with my day pack. Up and down the cliffs, and had to quickly don my jacket as the rain came in. As it was quite windy, the rain was coming in sideways. I kept going and it cleared just as I got to the top of Cape Huay. Amazing views again with a rainbow. Had lunch and enjoyed the views, the clean fresh air and the quiet.
Then time to start back, walked to the junction and picked up my pack and then on to Fortescue Bay to catch the return bus to Port Arthur Historic Site. Tired but happy.
I returned to Hobart by bus and stayed overnight in a hotel. Hot long shower and then dinner at a lovely Greek restaurant. Sleep in a warm comfortable bed. Next morning returned to Sydney.